The Invisible Stitch Every Beginner Should Know
Bianca Silva
If you have ever been frustrated by twisting waistbands or facings that won't stay put, you are not alone...and you are in the right place!
Today, I'm introducing you to a simple but powerful sewing technique that every beginner should learn: stitching in the ditch.
What Is Stitch in the Ditch?
Stitch in the ditch is a sewing technique where you sew directly into the seam line (or “ditch”) from the right side of the fabric.
The goal is to keep layers like facings, waistbands, or elastics secured in place, without visible stitches showing on the outside.
It’s commonly used in:
- Securing facings at shoulder seams
- Keeping elastics in place on side seams of trousers or skirts
- Anywhere you want clean, invisible stitching
Why You Need It
Take a look at your project without this stitch, loose linings, flipped facings, or bunched waistbands.
Now add a well-executed stitch in the ditch. Suddenly, everything looks neater, more polished, and professionally finished.
It’s one of those small details that make a big difference.
How to Stitch in the Ditch – Step by Step
1. Press Your Seams
Start by pressing your seam open or to the side. This helps define the “ditch” and makes it easier to sew into.
2. Work from the Right Side
Always stitch from the right side of your fabric. This lets you see exactly where your stitch will land, giving you better control.
3. Use a Straight Stitch
A simple straight stitch is all you need. Slightly pull the fabric to open the seam so you can see the ditch clearly.
4. Drop the Needle Carefully
Position your needle right into the seam line. This may require getting into an awkward angle or even hand-cranking the needle slowly for precision.
5. Choose the Right Thread
For best results, match your thread to your fabric. This helps disguise any small imperfections. (In my tutorial, I’m using black thread for visibility.)
6. Optional: Use a Stitch in the Ditch Foot
This specialty presser foot has a guide that glides along the seam, helping you stay perfectly aligned.
7. Practice First
Always practice on scrap fabric before applying it to your main project. And don’t worry if it’s not perfect—between a coordinating thread and a good press, slight wobbles will disappear in no time.
Final Thoughts
Stitch in the ditch might be nearly invisible, but its impact on your finished garments is anything but. It’s a must-know for beginners looking to create cleaner, more durable, and more professional sewing projects.
Thanks for reading and happy sewing!
Bye for now, B! xx